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Tuesday, April 25 

Riding with the sea critters...

Who would have thunk it eh? Well I sure wouldn't have. Seaner took a rad wave today and rode it with a seal. Have you seen those email forwards where some surfer has a bnch of dolphins riding beside him in the wave? I didn't think it was real - but now seeing Sean ride the wave with the seal, fuck, it's real. And it is some kinda sight.

We rolled in here on Sunday afternoon and had a big stellar dinner and a good night sleep. Yesterday we picked up our rental gear and hoofed it to the beach for about 3 hours. I moved muscles that have never been moved before during that session. We had a brisk break and then were off to a little more intense of a beach - Cox Bay - where it doesn't look intimidating from the beach but once you hit the water, you realize just how tall the waves are. My advice - walk away and go somewhere calmer. But no - we went into the water and had our asses kicked by mother nature - she's a fiesty bitch I tell ya. Had a much needed big dinner of bbq burgers and then a walk on the beach with our backpacks filled with booze. Bed has never felt better...

TODAY - back to the beach. Now, if you're thinking "she's fucking nuts - it's freezing freakin cold water", well I agree. It is - but we have wet suits which are thicker than anything. The most difficult things in the world to put on I'll tell you. Good god - if you don't have any patience, don't put on OR take off a wet suit. You'll be in for a frustrating endevour. ANYWAYS, we got our suits on and hoofed it back to the local beach where the waves were a little friendlier. Although a little more unfriendly once you get in the water - I still managed to catch a couple waves and rode them into shore. All in all, a swell day in the freezing water.

My face and chest are burnt - I am radiating heat off like no one's business. Forgot that the sun reflects off the water - heh heh heh.. heh. My bad. Tonite should be another swell evening. The beach is so awesome at night - kinda frightening though as you can't see the waves wash up - you just feel it at your feet. Maybe we should invest in a flashlight for our last 5 days here.

Having a kickass time and so glad I came. Now, off to watch the game and crack open a Smirnoff.

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